Saturday, 8 July 2017

Happy Heroic Birthday

As you may know if you follow this blog, I am quite a fan of Heroic Maps' work.  Three is just enough detail in them to provide an interesting play experience, and they build up to make fine terrain pieces, as I did here, for example.

Well they are having a birthday sale until Monday 11th July, so now is the time to pick up a bargain.


Sunday, 11 June 2017

5E Compliant Goblins

I've been painting some of the great Reaper bones goblins ready for future 5E D&D.
However, a quick browse through the Monster Manual shows that goblins are armed with scimitars and short bows, not spears and spiked clubs as on the minis.

Of course, it doesn't matter, but I do like to keep them as close to the book as possible.
So after painting three of the twelve goblins as a test colour scheme I decided to convert the remaining club and spear armed goblins.  I made scimitars and short swords out of the bonsium spre that the goblins were molded on.

Here is the process for making short swords; scimitars are just a slightly different shape.
Basic shape for the short sword blades.

The sprue is thick enough to make two blades.

Sliced in two to make two blades (I didn't make the halves quite equal, but for goblin blades it doesn't matter)

Two thin slices make the cross guards.  the guards are drilled through, and a hole is drilled into each blade.

The guards are threaded onto a thin brass wire, super glue added to the end and the blade attached.  The guard is then slid into place.

The original weapons are removed; with care the handles can serve as the pommels to the swords.
For some reason I cut the club off one of the painted goblins, never mind.

In case your'e wondering why the choice of weapon matters, in 5E goblins have a low strength, thus armed with clubs or spears they suffer a penalty to hit and damage, scimitars and short swords (finesse weapons) allow them to use their high dexterity giving them bonuses to hit and damage.  Win - win (as far as the goblins are concerned anyway.

Tuesday, 23 May 2017

Conan's Mummies

A long while back I got Monolith's conan board game.  After teasing you with some pics of the contents I promised a better look at some of the miniatures.
Well, I recently finished most of the mummies in the game (still four more to go) as I needed twelve human mummies for the current D&D adventure.  So here they are.

First pose (there are eight of these in the game)

and rear

Second pose (there are four of these in the game)

and rear


Third pose (and four of these)

and rear

Group shot of 12 of the 16 mummies in the game.


Its unusual for me to manage twelve similar miniatures without getting a little bored, but these were a joy to paint.  I kept the paint scheme simple, the bandages were khaki, the skin, where it shows through, was a purplish grey, and the cloth was a muted shade of green, red, yellow or blue.  I tried being clever with this, as the game organises monsters into groups by colours, but a closer reading of the rules suggests my idea isn't quite right, though it still gives a bit of variety.  Everything was washed with Army Painter strongtone ink, before drybrushing and highlighting and a bit of extra attention on the details like the jewelry and the rust on the sword blades (I'm particularly pleased with how this worked out).
I might base them on clear bases eventually, but this was about getting them ready for the game.
Detail wise they are very good for what they are.  As I said in my earlier post, I think they have the edge on Dungeon Saga, and about equal to the detail on The Walking Dead; All Out War.  they make great monsters for roleplaying.  I just have to decide what to do next.  I suppose I should finish the last four mummies, but there are some nice skeletons, great pirates, and the Picts (who have had an unpainted appearance in the D&D game) are full of character.

By the way, this is another photo-shoot using the home made light box.  I still don't think I've got the light levels right, but its an improvement on some of my earlier pics.


Friday, 12 May 2017

DS Furniture

To go with the doors, here is a sample of the Dungeon Saga furniture.

 The lighting isn't the best, I'm still experimenting with the lamps, but you get the idea.

Both shelf units are lovely pieces, very versatile and they paint up nicely.  The table is good, and I look forward to putting some of the pieces from Terrain Crate on it when that arrives next year.  I've used the barrels more than anything else, they provide interest, and cover, and in one game they were 'spawn points' for undead rat minions.
Painting was a simple overbrush of dark brown over black undercoat.  A further, lighter overbrush of a lighter brown, followed by drybrushes of Khaki and then bone.  Details were picked out in the relevant colours, usually with one highlight.  I might add a bit more shading with selective washes, but they will do for now.


DS Doors

I have (finally) got round to painting some of my Dungeon Saga furnishings.  I thought it was a good time to show them as Mantic's current Kickstarter, Terrain Crate is doing well and is close to ending; the stuff in there should fit very nicely with the DS stuff.

Double door about 2" wide.  I find this the most useful as I am currently using them with the Heroic Maps Ancient Dungeons set.


The doors were first washed then undercoated black.  I used the Vallejo black undercoat.  Its designed for airbrushing (and works great for that) but it also works well when brushed on.  The planks were basecoated with light brown.  I picked a few planks out on each door to paint lighter or darker, I think this gives a more naturalistic look; after all, they were presumably all made by hand (or claw), so I try to avoid too much uniformity.  A quick wash of sepia and the wood was just about done.
The bulk of the stonework was painted dark grey (VGC Charcoal?) then a few stone picked out in lighter colours.  The whole lot was drybrushed in light grey to tie the different colours together.  I'm not sure this works quite as well as the planks, and I'll try and tone it down a bit next time.
The ironwork was first painted in black, then picked out in chainmail.

I'll get some pics of the furniture up later today.

Monday, 8 May 2017

Moar Kickstarter Temptation

Well, it's been awhile, loads happening, not all game related.

I'll get back to posting more regularly, but I've not had much worth showing recently (at lest, that I can show before the players see it).

I'll just mention the following Mantic Kickstarter for RPG terrain, Terrain Crate.

The style seems similar to the 3D stuff included in Dungeon Saga, which has seen a lot of table top use in my D&D games, and it hasn't even been painted yet.

If it's at least as good as that, then I recommend it.  The Kickstarter price is certainly very good; you might not have an immediate use for everything includes, but it's well worth it if you use minis and like the 3D element.  I've found that the more you use this kind of prop, the more the players respond to it and use it within game.

I have just started painting the DS stuff, and it paints up very well.  I'll post some of it as soon as its finished.

Tuesday, 14 March 2017

Sponge Painting Deadzone Part 2

Last post I started sponge painting a building for Mantic's Deadzone game.
The building should be looking reasonable, but just a bit more effort will make it look a lot better, and this time we get to use a brush as well.
Firstly the stripes.  I can't remember where I first saw this idea, but painting the raised vertical bands on some of the panels really helps by adding a bit of colour.  The test building was yellow, for this one I chose blue.  I try to go for different colours on the board, I think of it as individual owners adding a touch of personality to their otherwise quite drab and uniform buildings.

First mask off around the bits you want to paint.  Masking tape is cheap enough; for this you don't need the really good stuff, save that for airbrushing.  Just make sure it sticks down next to the area to be painted, but if its a bit loose towards the edge, that helps when you peel it off.  If you're careful you can even re use it.
For this I used my Vallejo Game Colours, a dark blue than a lighter blue to catch the edges.

Finally I mixed some VMC Oily Steel with black and painted the bits I wanted to look metal (with a brush!).  These were then highlighted with pure Oily Steel.

Other steps to consider; run very watered down black into the cracks to emphasise the shadows, Sponge (or drybrush) a sandy/dusty colour around the lower edges.
Add posters and/or graffiti.